We were sitting in Chesterfield Reef watching a sub-tropical depression pushing down from the Solomons…Our choices were; leave asap before the weather arrives or, be prepared to sit it out in Chesterfield for as long as it takes (anything from 5-10 days) We decided to leave and to hit the Australian coast before our insurance stopped covering us due to the impending start to cyclone season. As we left the protected waters of the lagoon behind and bounced out through the western pass we had 20 knots of wind from the south east and Tika galloped along under jib and full main.
Above left; Tika running away from the rain and thunderstorms of a tropical depression.
Above right; our route from Chesterfield to Coff’s Harbour.
Above; chilly evenings = cuddles in the cockpit…
Above left; Russ decides to do some grooming off the back in an attempt to look presentable for the Australian check-in officials.
Above middle and right; hanging out on the tramps in smooth seas. The East Australian Current helped to whoosh Tika south once we neared the east coast. The wind had swung around to the north east and she was gliding at 12 knots boat speed with the code zero flying out the front.
As we approached Coff’s harbour the wind died altogether and we found ourselves motor sailing past the Solitary Islands and towards the rock walls that protect the marina. Customs and immigration were already monitoring our AIS signal and were waiting on the dock to take our lines as we arrived.
So, here we are; our check in port is 540 km north of Sydney, and 390 km south of Brisbane. Coff’s Harbour was once a hub for a thriving banana industry and the stretch of coast that surround this regional city is also known as the banana coast. These days, blueberries as well as tourism and fishing are it’s main economy.
The check-in process was thorough. Australia’s border protection has a reputation in the cruising community for being over zealous. Unfriendly even. Many prefer to spend cyclone season in NZ. Ironically, New Zealand was just as rigorous but seemed to pull off biosecurity, customs and immigration with a much more welcoming tone…
To complicate our check-in procedure, Tika had to be officially imported into Australia. She is an Australian registered vessel but was purchased overseas and import duty and GST was due. It was an expensive decision to bring her into Australia but our dream of sailing back to Perth rather than selling her offshore was stronger than the pain of having to pay a big whack of cash to the ATO for the privilege…
As it turned out, the Aussie officials were over zealous. But not unfriendly. They even agreed to give us a port to port clearance that allowed us to move Tika to Sydney Harbour before we had finalised our import. Technically, they can ‘bond’ the boat and not allow you to move until the vessel is valued, the paperwork processed and the invoice paid in full. Given we had a plan to be in Melbourne for Christmas, we wanted to keep moving so were grateful for the clearance!
Our first impression back in Australia? “it’s so FIRST WORLD!” Shiny. New. Public toilets everywhere! Ones that flush! With toilet paper! We stood for an embarrassingly long time staring at the landscaping around the foreshore. After visiting so many poor, Pacific Islands it was hard not to think about the contrast between the manicured gardens and some of the more basic villages we visited.
We did have a traumatic experience when we visited the local shopping center. We haven’t been to a proper shopping center for a good couple of years and it was an assault to the the senses- loud and bright with artificial light and crammed full of cheap plastic products.
Above; We got the feeling that Coff’s Harbour was a growing, booming place, however, it’s small town, regional, beach-surf-fishing-town roots are still in tact. The humid, subtropical climate and gorgeous surf beaches makes it an attractive place to live and a popular place for a beach holiday for many Aussie’s dwelling on the east coast.
Above left; at the dock on our day of arrival back in the sunburnt country… After a few days we moved out of the marina and onto a mooring off the beach- aghh that’s better! We are not much marina-people.
Captain underpants and the rug rats were a little grumpy in Coff’s Harbour. Despite still having 2500nm to go, the reality of nearing the end of our trip started to bite and they skulked around the boat feeling miserable for several days….Me? I found a fabulous yoga school walking distance from the jetty and spent my time doing 2 classes a day and having coffee with the yogis! There is a lot of sitting around during ocean passages and this little yoga studio was something like a magical tonic for my stiff back and tight joints….
Muttonbird Island Nature Reserve is joined to the mainland by the marina rock wall and a board walk. It has a large population of wedge-tailed shearwater birds, and is the perfect place to feast on fish and chips with a view. Tika is one of the two boats parked off the beach outside of the marina and to the right of the jetty.
I loved the old timber pier that jutted out into the harbour. Built in the 1890’s to enable shipping to move timber from the hinterland, it had the buzz of a well loved community amenity – people promenading, sitting, fishing, photographing and watching the trawlers, seagulls (and us as we sat drinking coffee in the cockpit.) A gaggle of teenagers were regularly seen jetty jumping the 10-12m into the water below. We felt like we were right in the thick of the out-doors-ey aspect of this ‘lil Aussie town.
Above; The Barronjoey Head Lighthouse welcomes us into the safe haven of Pittwater harbour. We did an overnight run from Coffs and arrived at sunset to tuck in behind the headland. After a super early morning run up the hill to the lighthouse, we met our boat valuer who came aboard Tika to assess and value her for our import duty.
Above right; rowing in at dawn to hike up to the lighthouse..
Above left; after being away for Australia for 3 years, typical Aussie landscape features seemed novel- “check out the termite nest in the dead tree!”
Above Right; The heritage listed Barronjoey Head Lighthouse was built way back in 1881. The keeper’s cottage and two assistant keeper’s cottages are also still perched atop the hill next to the lighthouse. There is a world-wide appreciation of the humble lighthouse and I can feel myself slipping into that fascination… They are almost always found on rugged ocean cliffs in remote areas, they seem to be a direct link to the past and, well I guess the fact that they shine a guiding light, warn of peril and save sailors’ lives makes them pillars that demand respect and admiration.
Above; Sydney bound! Another yacht heading from Pittwater to Sydney snapped this picture (left) of Tika streaming down-wind en route to Sydney. We were all sitting at the front loving every minute of the sleigh ride! (photo credit S.V Ezibeat)
Click below for the movie about our passage from Chesterfield Reef to Coff’s Harbour and Pittwater..
Next post; Sydney harbour….
This entry was posted in The Sail.
